Page 3
Keeping in mind that not every Triumph 6-cylinder engine with this problem can be salvaged, I was very fortunate to have caught the problem with my engine early. Other than damage to the original style thrust washer, only the crankshaft surface and main bearing end cap face had been affected. Fortunately, the crankshaft bearing end cap was repairable, and the wear to the side of the end cap had not gone far enough to cause the crankshaft to come in contact with the engine block side of the journal, so there was no damage to the block itself. If so, the engine would have to be removed from the car to assess the damage and determine whether the engine could be salvaged.
Even though the wear on the crankshaft had worn irregular, the surface was polished from the abrasive type wear. This was an advantage because even though the surface was somewhat irregular, it was smooth and would create less friction against the surface of the new solid alloy thrust washer. The crankshaft surface was somewhat irregular, but I felt it was minimal enough that I could place the solid alloy thrust washer on that side of the bearing journal and keep a close eye on it for wear. The wear would eventually conform to the crankshaft surface.
The new solid alloy thrust washer was installed in the car on October 7, 1997. From that day on, I kept a running check on the crankshaft end-float at regular frequent intervals. Initially every ten miles, then twenty, then as confidence increased, I felt comfortable going for longer durations. I hoped that once the new thrust washer conformed to the slightly irregular but smooth, polished crankshaft surface, I would be able to enjoy my TR6 without having to remove the engine for an extensive repair.
Please note: When performing this kind of work, it is important to use your workshop manual as a guide, and if you don't feel comfortable performing these tasks, ask for guidance. I would strongly recommend anyone sorting out problems of this nature to work closely with an experienced machinist and mechanic.
When beginning this thrust washer test, the odometer reading on my car read 38,869. I strived for minimal crankshaft end-float clearance at the beginning because I knew that with this less than perfect situation, the new thrust washer would wear and conform to the irregular surface of the crankshaft. Once these two surfaces fully conformed to one another, it was believed that there would be minimal wear, and a long thrust washer life would be the result.
Upon inspection after driving the car during the next summer, I learned that my findings were what I had thought they would be. The solid bronze alloy thrust washer had conformed to the irregular surface of the crankshaft, thus slightly increasing the end-float dimension. Once the two surfaces conformed to one another, additional wear was minimal. From this point on, the end float check would be checked on a regular basis.
The End
As an additional improvement to using a single solid alloy thrust washer, we now modify the end cap to allow for a 360 degree solid alloy thrust washer bearing setup which greatly improves the rear side thrust washer bearing longevity.
Checking crankshaft end-float clearance on a stock TR6
The crankshaft end-float clearance can be determined by pushing the crankshaft toward the rear of the car (engine not running) by gently but firmly using a 1" x 4" x 3' piece of wood to force the crankshaft toward the rear of the car. Once you believe the crankshaft has seated in the rearward direction, you can take a measurement between the radiator and the fan blade hub while using a snap gage or inside micrometer (see links on main page for more information). This is a crude way to take this measurement, but after practice you can become very good at this, and it is much easier than removing the oil pan to use feeler gages. This method is usually good enough to determine whether you have a problem in the first place.
After taking the above measurement, press the clutch pedal to the floor. This will force the crankshaft to seat in the opposite direction toward the front of the car. Take another measurement using the procedure above. The difference between the two measurements will determine your end-float clearance. If the measurement is greater than .007" you might want to consider replacing your thrust washers, especially if you're using an original thin plated OEM steel version. I recommend taking the above measurements several times for good measure. Once you become experienced at this, it takes very little time, and should be performed on a regular basis.
If you have no idea how many miles have been driven since your last thrust washer replacement, then you should probably add this to your urgent list of things to do!
Keeping in mind that not every Triumph 6-cylinder engine with this problem can be salvaged, I was very fortunate to have caught the problem with my engine early. Other than damage to the original style thrust washer, only the crankshaft surface and main bearing end cap face had been affected. Fortunately, the crankshaft bearing end cap was repairable, and the wear to the side of the end cap had not gone far enough to cause the crankshaft to come in contact with the engine block side of the journal, so there was no damage to the block itself. If so, the engine would have to be removed from the car to assess the damage and determine whether the engine could be salvaged.
Even though the wear on the crankshaft had worn irregular, the surface was polished from the abrasive type wear. This was an advantage because even though the surface was somewhat irregular, it was smooth and would create less friction against the surface of the new solid alloy thrust washer. The crankshaft surface was somewhat irregular, but I felt it was minimal enough that I could place the solid alloy thrust washer on that side of the bearing journal and keep a close eye on it for wear. The wear would eventually conform to the crankshaft surface.
The new solid alloy thrust washer was installed in the car on October 7, 1997. From that day on, I kept a running check on the crankshaft end-float at regular frequent intervals. Initially every ten miles, then twenty, then as confidence increased, I felt comfortable going for longer durations. I hoped that once the new thrust washer conformed to the slightly irregular but smooth, polished crankshaft surface, I would be able to enjoy my TR6 without having to remove the engine for an extensive repair.
Please note: When performing this kind of work, it is important to use your workshop manual as a guide, and if you don't feel comfortable performing these tasks, ask for guidance. I would strongly recommend anyone sorting out problems of this nature to work closely with an experienced machinist and mechanic.
When beginning this thrust washer test, the odometer reading on my car read 38,869. I strived for minimal crankshaft end-float clearance at the beginning because I knew that with this less than perfect situation, the new thrust washer would wear and conform to the irregular surface of the crankshaft. Once these two surfaces fully conformed to one another, it was believed that there would be minimal wear, and a long thrust washer life would be the result.
Upon inspection after driving the car during the next summer, I learned that my findings were what I had thought they would be. The solid bronze alloy thrust washer had conformed to the irregular surface of the crankshaft, thus slightly increasing the end-float dimension. Once the two surfaces conformed to one another, additional wear was minimal. From this point on, the end float check would be checked on a regular basis.
The End
As an additional improvement to using a single solid alloy thrust washer, we now modify the end cap to allow for a 360 degree solid alloy thrust washer bearing setup which greatly improves the rear side thrust washer bearing longevity.
Checking crankshaft end-float clearance on a stock TR6
The crankshaft end-float clearance can be determined by pushing the crankshaft toward the rear of the car (engine not running) by gently but firmly using a 1" x 4" x 3' piece of wood to force the crankshaft toward the rear of the car. Once you believe the crankshaft has seated in the rearward direction, you can take a measurement between the radiator and the fan blade hub while using a snap gage or inside micrometer (see links on main page for more information). This is a crude way to take this measurement, but after practice you can become very good at this, and it is much easier than removing the oil pan to use feeler gages. This method is usually good enough to determine whether you have a problem in the first place.
After taking the above measurement, press the clutch pedal to the floor. This will force the crankshaft to seat in the opposite direction toward the front of the car. Take another measurement using the procedure above. The difference between the two measurements will determine your end-float clearance. If the measurement is greater than .007" you might want to consider replacing your thrust washers, especially if you're using an original thin plated OEM steel version. I recommend taking the above measurements several times for good measure. Once you become experienced at this, it takes very little time, and should be performed on a regular basis.
If you have no idea how many miles have been driven since your last thrust washer replacement, then you should probably add this to your urgent list of things to do!
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